Chisel Chisel Chisel!  The Radon Suction Pit

Once you busted all the concrete out you will then need to reach in with you hand and remove all the dirt, gravel, or clay. You will end up with about two 5 gallon buckets full of soil. The radon pit will need to be about 6 inches deep and as far all holes drilledas you can reach all the way around the hole. You have just finished the radon suction pit or radon suction point. On our way to reducing radon levels, once you removed the debris, we will dry fit the pipe (make sure it fits before any gluing) in to the radon pit, there should be about a 1/2 inch wigglestart chiseling concrete room around the pipe. Cut a piece of pipe about 18 inches long, if you cleaned out the pit to 6 inches deep the extend the pipe into the hole until it’s about 4 inches from touching the bottom of the radon pit. Now we will take care of the wiggle room, you will need some backer rod, pick up at Lowe’s or Home Depot it cost about $4.00. Backer rod is a non-absorbent flexible rope like joint backing material, cut a piece and wrap tightly around the pipe and push in the hole about an inch. Oh yeah while you were at Lowe’s or Home Depot pick up some hydraulic cement unless you have some already. Hydraulic cement sets in 3-5 minutes to stop the flow of water – even under pressure. It is ideal for sealing floor and wall joints, settlement cracks in masonry walls and for use to anchor metal to masonry. Cost about $6.00. You will mix this with water, have everything ready because this stuff sets up extremely fast, and fill in the top of the radon suction radon pitpit and smooth out on top of the floor quickly. This should be dry enough to work with in about 1 hour, but you can wait 24 hrs., if you want, this might be a good stopping point.